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The Devil's
Teeth by Susan Casey Travel
thirty miles north, south, or east of San Francisco city hall and you'll be engulfed
in a landscape of thick traffic, fast enterprise, and six-dollar cappuccinos.
Venture thirty miles due west, however, and you will find yourself on what is
virtually another planet: a spooky cluster of rocky islands called the Farallones,
battered by foul weather, thronged with two hundred thousand seabirds, and surrounded
by the largest great white sharks in the world.
Journalist Susan Casey
was in her living room when she first glimpsed this strange place and its resident
sharks, their dark fins swirling around a tiny boat in a documentary. These great
whites were the alphas among alphas, the narrator said, some of them topping eighteen
feet in length, and each fall they congregated here off the northern California
coast. That so many of these magnificent and elusive animals lived in the 415
area code, crisscrossing each other under the surface like jets stacked in a holding
pattern, seemed stunningly improbable -- and irresistible. Case knew she had to
see them for herself.
Within a matter of months she was in a seventeen-foot
Boston Whaler, being hoisted up a cliff face onto the barren surface of Southeast
Farallon island -- part of the group known to nineteenth-century sailors as the
"Devil's Teeth." There she joined the two biologists who study the sharks,
bunking down in the island's one habitable building, a haunted, 120-year-old house
spackled with lichen and gull guano. Less than forth-eight hours later she had
her first encounter with the famous, terrifying jaws and was instantly hooked.
Curiosity yielded to obsession, and when the opportunity arose to return for a
longer stay she jumped at it. But as Casey readied herself for shark season, she
had no way of preparing for what she would find among the dangerous, forgotten
islands that have banished every campaign for civilization in the past two hundred
years. Hardbound in very good condition.
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